Burda PJs

Burda Style, English edition, is my favorite magazine.  Not only is it a bargain - about $6 and issue which comes with 30-40 patterns and variations, but it is also a great fashion, sewing and crafting resource.  I never part with them - I've got years worth expanding in my basement - and I never seem to get far enough ahead to actually sew a garment in the same month as I receive the issue.  That said, the December 2016 is one of my most favorite.  They featured a beautiful set of patterns for knit and woven pajamas - slips, camisoles, pants, etc. 

I was shopping at Soma and they have wonderful, comfortable, beautiful pajamas - that are, in my opinion, way over-priced.  Every time I've picked up a pair of their cute PJ shorts or pants and tried to talk myself into buying them, I simply can't, knowing how easy it is to make them.

So I made them using Burda 12-2016-110.  If you're unfamiliar with Burda, that is December 2016 issue, pattern number 110.

The fabric was in my stash from Girl Charlee fabrics.  It's a cotton lycra blend that feels very similar to the fabric Soma uses for their PJs.  The stretch lace was also in my stash from Sew Sassy Fabrics - I bought one of their grab bags at an excellent price and it was stuffed with all widths and colors of beautiful stretch lace.

If I round on the high side I spent just under $10 for these.  Soma's are $32.

This is an excellent pattern - very versatile.  It's designed for wovens, but can be used for knits too.  The inseam without lace would be about 2.5" to 3", but with the lace mine are 4.5" - and I prefer the longer length.  They could easily be upgraded with pretty details like piping on the side seams or a ribbon tie waist band.

I used a couple of techniques I learned from Alison Smith's Lingerie class at Craftsy. 

• First is the lace.  I sewed it wrong side to wrong side with a straight stitch and the folded the right side of the fabric up and stitched the top edge of the lace and the fabric with a zig-zag.  It makes a very neat, strong seam.

• Second is the waistband/elastic casing.  I folded and pressed the waistband allowance then edge-stitched the top edge and then stitched the bottom edge.  It makes a sturdier casing.

Customizable, gorgeous, comfortable PJS are within your grasp! 

Make something beautiful!


Jen

Radiant Orchid Winter Coat

I've had this beautiful lavender/pink wool in my stash for about 5 years waiting for the right project.  It's a merino/cashmere blend that is completely, heavenly soft.  I had in mind several coat patterns from my Burda Style magazines, but I chose one from the 11/2007 issue, pattern number 101.  It's got beautiful princess seams that make it a very pretty shape and fit.  I also like the large pleated collar and I immediately envisioned it in a matching velvet.

Changes I made: 

• Burda makes this coat in taffeta as an evening coat with snap closure.  I felt like snap closures would be problematic:  I didn't want the stitching on the outside of the coat and the weight of the wool and interfacings would make the snaps pull and hang awkwardly.  I chose a button front closure.
• Trim.  The Burda version has a stunning origami band sewn on the bottom.  I really, really, really wanted this, but the wool and also the velvet were far too thick.  I was initially frustrated with this, but now I like the cleaner look I have with my finished coat.

Coat Structure:

• Front facings and collar are interfaced with Palmer/Pletsch perfect fuse tailor ultra
• Folded edge of facing and front is interfaced with Emma Seabrookes 1" double sided stay tape  this gives the edge a nice sharp crisp line. 
• I also used a sturdier sew-in interfacing at the top edges where the collar joins to give it added stability (keeps the collar from drooping - the velvet is quite heavy).

 

• Buttons: are from Lyanwood's Etsy shop.  I painted them with a metallic paint I picked up at Hobby Lobby - surprisingly the color matched nearly perfectly.

 Interior of the coat:

• It's interlined with Thinsulate which I purchased from Vogue Fabrics 
• For a great tutorial on adding interlining visit Threads or sign up for this wonderful class on Craftsy.
• The lining fabric is a polyester charmeuse I purchased from Fabric.com
• I bound the bottom edge of the thinsulate & lining with a gorgeous floral satin binding ribbon I had in my stash (it's good to have a stash).

A word about fitting:
My most helpful fitting resource is a book by Judith Rasband called Fabulous Fit:  Speed Fitting and Alteration.  I took a mini-class from her several years ago at the American Sewing Expo in Novi, Michigan.  Her method just makes sense - it is simple, quick, thorough, and logical.   I've had great success with it.
 

Make something beautiful!

Jen