Showing posts with label Sew a tailored coat. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sew a tailored coat. Show all posts

Monday, February 10, 2014

Radiant Orchid Winter Coat

I've had this beautiful lavender/pink wool in my stash for about 5 years waiting for the right project.  It's a merino/cashmere blend that is completely, heavenly soft.  I had in mind several coat patterns from my Burda Style magazines, but I chose one from the 11/2007 issue, pattern number 101.  It's got beautiful princess seams that make it a very pretty shape and fit.  I also like the large pleated collar and I immediately envisioned it in a matching velvet.

Changes I made: 
  • Burda makes this coat in taffeta as an evening coat with snap closure.  I felt like snap closures would be problematic:  I didn't want the stitching on the outside of the coat and the weight of the wool and interfacings would make the snaps pull and hang awkwardly.  I chose a button front closure.
  • Trim.  The Burda version has a stunning origami band sewn on the bottom.  I really, really, really wanted this, but the wool and also the velvet were far too thick.  I was initially frustrated with this, but now I like the cleaner look I have with my finished coat.


Coat Structure:

  • Buttons: are from Lyanwood's Etsy shop.  I painted them with a metallic paint I picked up at Hobby Lobby - surprisingly the color matched nearly perfectly.


 Interior of the coat:
  • It's interlined with Thinsulate which I purchased from Vogue Fabrics 
  • For a great tutorial on adding interlining visit Threads or sign up for this wonderful class on Craftsy.
  • The lining fabric is a polyester charmeuse I purchased from Fabric.com
  • I bound the bottom edge of the thinsulate & lining with a gorgeous floral satin binding ribbon I had in my stash (it's good to have a stash).
A word about fitting:
My most helpful fitting resource is a book by Judith Rasband called Fabulous Fit:  Speed Fitting and Alteration.  I took a mini-class from her several years ago at the American Sewing Expo in Novi, Michigan.  Her method just makes sense - it is simple, quick, thorough, and logical.   I've had great success with it.
http://www.amazon.com/Fabulous-Fit-Fitting-Alteration-Edition/dp/1563673215/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1392081563&sr=8-2&keywords=judith+rasband 

Make something beautiful!

Jen