Friday, July 3, 2015

Sewing Underthings

I went through a "sewing phase" a few years ago where I was obsessed with the idea of making my own lingerie.  I made several camisoles, 2 almost completed underwire bras, and a very comfortable sports bra that I used as a nursing bra. 

There seems to be a resurgence of interest in sewing lingerie and there are amazing classes on Craftsy by experts in the field, so I've developed interest once again.  I pulled those two almost finished bras out of my to-do box and plan on finishing those up in a week or two.  I also discovered that I had cut out, all ready to go - my favorite sports/nursing bra - so I sewed that up today.

I don't nurse anymore but it's still an amazingly comfortable bra - great for lounging and enough support for a yoga class.

The pattern is by Jan Bones of Lingerie Secrets.  I met her and took a class from her a few years ago at the American Sewing Expo in Novi, Michigan.  She's incredibly gifted and a great teacher.  She makes sewing knits and elastic applications understandable and easy.  Here's a link to her website:  Sewing Lingerie

I used a cheap cotton lycra fabric from my stash and elastics from Sew Sassy - my go to source for lingerie sewing supplies.

Here's quick how-to on sewing the elastic edges:

On the top edges I used this technique:

Line elastic up with the edge of the wrong side of the fabric.

  • My regular sewing foot has two red markings that are exactly 4.0 mm apart and mark the exact width of my zig-zag stitch.  I sew on on the very edge of the left side of the elastic, using the red marks as my guide
Here are my stitch settings:

  • After attaching the elastic on the wrong side it should look like this

  • Then fold it down and stitch on the folded edge - same zig-zag stitch

  • When you flip it over you'll have a lovely finished edge.  I used black thread so it could easily be seen for the illustration, but I prefer to use thread the same color as my fabric.

I'll show the fold-over elastic application in my next post.  I'm making another bra from a new pattern I just bought from Ohhh Lulu
It uses fold over elastic to bind all the edges.

Be comfy and make something beautiful!