A long time ago, in a galaxy far, far away...

I bought this Star Wars quilting fabric because my client loved AT-ATs and the Death Star.  I envisioned a shirt, pajamas, maybe a quilt (but I don't quilt, so that idea went quickly by).  After about 3 years (maybe 4), I remembered a great button down shirt pattern I had in one of my Ottobre sewing magazines.  Its the 6/2014 Issue Pattern No. 31 - Button Up Dress Shirt.  It has fun extras like contrast band, yokes, plackets and cuffs. 

Partially through the construction, my client decided that this was a much too dressy option for his current casual lifestyle.  Rising to the challenge, I channeled my inner Michael Kors and added this oh-so-stylish knit hood and got rid of the collar stand. My client was thrilled because his head is always cold. It also changed this too buttoned-up button-up into a casual, cool shirt/jacket.

I used a pattern for the hood from the Burda Style 12/2015 issue.  I had no issues with it fitting the neckline perfectly.

My favorite features of this shirt:

• The hood.  I used green thread in my serger to match the shirt
• The contrast yoke, cuffs, button placket and collar
• The mismatched buttons (metal star buttons and big green buttons)
• The front welt pocket (easiest, cutest welt pocket ever designed - see my previous post)

Make something beautiful!
Jen

Easiest Welt Pocket

I get such a joyful little thrill when I find a clever sewing technique!  I discovered this one just this evening, right before dinner.  I was cutting out a shirt for my son, which has a welt pocket on the front instead of the traditional patch pocket.  I've actually put off working on this shirt for that very reason - welt pockets are a tricky business.  I can do them, but they require some extra brain effort, and frankly, I've been tired.

So, after looking for the pattern piece and reading through the pattern cutting instructions, I discovered much to my curiosity, that there was no pattern piece for the welts.  The were folded, all in one, from the pocket itself.  How might this clever business work?!  Let me show you!

First, here is the pocket piece pattern.

Second, here is the pocket piece, which you sew right sides together to the shirt front (which is not a shirt front, but a scrap of fabric because I am practicing).  I used marking paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the marks for the stitching and folding lines onto the wrong side of the pocket.

Third, here is the stitching

Fourth, here is the cutting.  Make sure to clip into the corners all the way to the stitching or you will have puckers

Fifth, turn inside out

Sixth, fold your welts and press

Seventh, top stitch the sides and bottom

Eighth, fold up the pocket and stitch the sides (careful to keep it free from the shirt front).  On the actual shirt, I would serge the edges of the pocket.

Ninth, top stitch the top to close the the pocket (I leave long thread tails on steps 7 and 9 and then use a hand sewing needle to bring the threads to the wrong side.  Makes things much tidier than having little threads poking out)

Tenth, the cutest shirt pocket!

This whole process took me about 10 minutes.  I couldn't be more delighted - and now I'm completely motivated to get this shirt constructed.  Yes, it is a Star Wars shirt (I call this fabric Star Wars Toile).

If you're interest in the pattern and technique, it is in the Ottobre 6/2014 magazine, pattern #39.

Make something beautiful!

Corduroy jeans - completed!

I finished the "Casual & Smart" pants pattern from Ottobre Design Magazine 6/2014 issue.  They are made from a light/mid weight fine-wale red cotton stretch corduroy  (that's a lot of adjectives).

They are very slim-fitting - if I sew another pair for my son I will size up so he can wear them longer.

One change I made to the pattern was to make the waistband adjustable.  I figured out how to do this by looking at a pair of my son's RTW jeans.

• I made the buttonholes and sewed on the buttons (recycled from jeans that no longer fit him) on the inside of the waistband prior to attaching it to the jeans.  
• Once the waistband was completed, I threaded buttonhole elastic through the button hole openings and then stitched the ends securely using a zig-zag stitch.  
• This stitch is hidden under the first belt-loop.

Here's a back view.  I love the unique pockets.

Here are a few "action" shots on my son.  We both love the fancy curved seam down the leg.

And finally, I think these pictures show how the elastic in the waistband really helps these fit him better.  The first photo is without cinching up the elastic - there's a significant gap in the back.  The second photo shows the elastic pulled in.

For construction techniques I referred mostly to the online Craftsy class,  Sewing Designer Jeans - Angela Wolf, Instructor.  This is probably the best class I have purchased on Craftsy.  You will sew jeans like a pro.









The best part of this endeavor was putting them on my son and remarking that they looked like something you might buy in the store.  My son said "No they don't!  They look like your beautiful work, Mama."

Make something beautiful!
Jen