Radiant Orchid Winter Coat

I've had this beautiful lavender/pink wool in my stash for about 5 years waiting for the right project.  It's a merino/cashmere blend that is completely, heavenly soft.  I had in mind several coat patterns from my Burda Style magazines, but I chose one from the 11/2007 issue, pattern number 101.  It's got beautiful princess seams that make it a very pretty shape and fit.  I also like the large pleated collar and I immediately envisioned it in a matching velvet.

Changes I made: 

• Burda makes this coat in taffeta as an evening coat with snap closure.  I felt like snap closures would be problematic:  I didn't want the stitching on the outside of the coat and the weight of the wool and interfacings would make the snaps pull and hang awkwardly.  I chose a button front closure.
• Trim.  The Burda version has a stunning origami band sewn on the bottom.  I really, really, really wanted this, but the wool and also the velvet were far too thick.  I was initially frustrated with this, but now I like the cleaner look I have with my finished coat.

Coat Structure:

• Front facings and collar are interfaced with Palmer/Pletsch perfect fuse tailor ultra
• Folded edge of facing and front is interfaced with Emma Seabrookes 1" double sided stay tape  this gives the edge a nice sharp crisp line. 
• I also used a sturdier sew-in interfacing at the top edges where the collar joins to give it added stability (keeps the collar from drooping - the velvet is quite heavy).

 

• Buttons: are from Lyanwood's Etsy shop.  I painted them with a metallic paint I picked up at Hobby Lobby - surprisingly the color matched nearly perfectly.

 Interior of the coat:

• It's interlined with Thinsulate which I purchased from Vogue Fabrics 
• For a great tutorial on adding interlining visit Threads or sign up for this wonderful class on Craftsy.
• The lining fabric is a polyester charmeuse I purchased from Fabric.com
• I bound the bottom edge of the thinsulate & lining with a gorgeous floral satin binding ribbon I had in my stash (it's good to have a stash).

A word about fitting:
My most helpful fitting resource is a book by Judith Rasband called Fabulous Fit:  Speed Fitting and Alteration.  I took a mini-class from her several years ago at the American Sewing Expo in Novi, Michigan.  Her method just makes sense - it is simple, quick, thorough, and logical.   I've had great success with it.
 

Make something beautiful!

Jen